Tuesday, October 14, 2014

Zombie apocalypse survival: golf car speed upgrades.

I need to go faster!  Well, there are a number of ways to get you moving down the path to stay out in front of the walkers.  Some are cheap and easy, others not so much.  However, first things first.  Legality and liability must be considered.  If you are on a public road, a golf car (by legal definition) can only seat 2 and be capable of 15 miles per hour.  If it's been modified to go faster or hold more people, then it must meet the requirements of a regular motor vehicle... and that's impossible.  Speed upgrades run the risk of an altercation with 5-O.  Even worse, you significantly increase the risk of injury/death to yourself and others.  Proceed with caution.

Now assuming you are driving on private property and want to go faster than 15mph, the following are typical methods to achieving this.  This is of course for hypothetical, informational purposes only... say for a zombie apocalypse survival scenario contingency.

Re-program
Many electric golf cars (the EZGo RXV for example) can simply be plugged in and re-programmed for more speed.  This is an easy 4 1/2 mph increase in the case of the RXV.  Others have "speed chips" that can be replaced for a higher maximum speed.  This is without a doubt the least expensive speed upgrade and the first to do if your car is capable.

Tires/Wheels
The typical 18" stock turf tire travels 56" in one revolution.  If you size up to a 20" tire, the car moves forward 63" in one rev, an increase of 12%.  Most cars can accommodate a 20" tire without a lift.  Keeping with the RXV example, now you are cruising at almost 22mph.  Want more?  Go up to 22s or even 24s but keep in mind your center of gravity is also going up with the lift necessary to accommodate those gansta wheels.  A higher CG means more instability in the turns at speed.

Gears
Typical gears are 12.5:1.  By gearing up to 8:1 or 6:1 an additional 8mph and 14mph is possible (respectively) with stock tires and motor.  Now you are really rippin' and a twitch away from flipping that sucker.  Changing the gears puts more electrical load on everything in the system.  Upgrades to the controller, wiring and batteries may be necessary to accommodate the new gears.  You've also turned it into a flat-land rig so forget about any kind of hill climb capability.

Motor
A bigger (more horsepower), higher rpm motor is the final upgrade.  Combined with gears, a monster controller, huge wires and lots of battery capacity, speed freaks get 50mph with off-the-shelf parts.  This will also require a fat stack of cash as speed doesn't come cheap.  At this point you've pretty much replaced the entire electrical drive system.

Consider the risks and be sure you do lots of homework if you're after big gains.  Have fun and above all, be safe!

Wednesday, July 9, 2014

Golf Cars, More than just golf.

Golf cars are a really amazing example of adaptation and versatility.  What started out as a means to drag one's lazy, drunk butt around 18 holes has morphed into vehicles for all kinds of different work and play activities.


Neighborhood
Many neighborhoods are conducive to using a golf car for neighborhood cruising.  I see them all the time at my local park, where the kidos are playing sports and a local coach or dad hauls the equipment to the field in his golf car.  Most often they are nice rigs too with custom colors, wheels and flip-flop rear seats.  A special classification of neighborhood electric vehicles can even be registered to legally operate on city streets with maximum posted speed of 35mph. (http://allcaljon.blogspot.com/2014/06/a-primer-on-neighborhood-electric.html)

Campground
Many RV campers haul their golf car to the campground.  The last campground I was at made me wish I had done the same thing.  The walk from our site to the store was a LONG way.  It makes getting around and grabbing supplies like firewood much easier.  Golf cars and camping are a good fit.

Hunting/Off-road
There's a huge contingent of hunters that have off-road adaptations of golf cars for getting to the blind or tree stand.  These rigs are often lifted and can even be 4 wheel drive, going most anywhere you want. I've ridden in a "rail" style dune buggy adaptation that was amazing.  This electric rig was stealth and would destroy any high desert terrain you could throw at it.

Industrial
Many larger campus settings such as schools, hospitals, sprawling corporate facilities, and industrial complexes use golf cars for maintenance, shuttle and security.  They can be equipped with a utility box or stretched into 6 passenger vehicles to provide quick and efficient local area transportation.  Cushman even makes heavy duty versions with load capacities up to 1500 pounds and hydraulic dump beds.

"Golf" cars are providing much more than getting 18 in before lunch.  You'll find them at shopping malls and hospitals, plowing snow and cruising across the desert.  If you are among the uninitiated, grab a ride and have some fun.  Maybe a neighborhood ride or campground rig is in your future.


Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Golf Car Battery Use and Maintenance

Intro

The batteries in your golf car or maintenance vehicle require a minimal, but important amount of care to achieve maximum utility and life.  They are a substantial portion of your overall investment so understanding proper operation and maintenance will maximize long term use before replacement is necessary.

This guide is meant to provide the minimum information necessary and is presented in non-technical terms.  There are numerous internet sources for more detailed information and “how-to” guides.  Please read through this guide and follow the important safety guidelines.

Function

Just what is a battery and what does it do?  The battery bank is a storage reservoir of electrons (direct current electricity).  When called on for work, the electrons flow from the reservoir to the device requiring electricity to perform work.  In our case, this is the electric motor driving the cart.

Like a water reservoir, once depleted the reservoir needs to be refilled.  The battery charger takes power from a common electrical outlet and puts electrons back into the battery for use again later.  The total amount of energy available is determined by the size of the batteries (again, much like the water reservoir).  The measurement unit is “amp hours.”  The more amp hours, the bigger the storage capacity and the longer the motor can run.

Operation

The type of battery typically installed in these vehicles is what’s known as a flooded, lead acid, deep cycle battery.  They are designed for the demands of these cars and substitutes should never be used.  Fire and/or acid leaking may result.  You should also never exchange batteries from another golf car as their lifecycle will be in a different stage.

The amp hours available for work is not a fixed number.  It is highest (at rating) when brand new and slowly diminishes over time.  These batteries have a finite number of discharge cycles and ultimately need to be replaced.

As such, in order to maximize their lifespan, the operator can be mindful of good operating practices.  The “bad” practices listed should be used only when absolutely necessary and not as a regular matter of operation.  The good practices will help insure longest possible battery life between charges and longest overall life.


Hard acceleration = bad
Full throttle = bad
Deep discharge (dead) = bad
Frequent starts = bad
Sitting after discharge = bad
Partial recharge = bad
Gentle acceleration = good
Up to 2/3 throttle = good
Partial discharge (to 50%) = good
Constant speed = good
Recharge after use = good
Complete recharge = good

In many ways the golf car is much like an automobile in this way.  Stop and go or going 80 both result in poor fuel economy.  A constant moderate speed is where efficiency is achieved.

Charging

Charging is important.  The batteries will perform best when used at a full state of charge.  They will also last longer when left on a charge as the charger automatically delivers the amount of charge required.  It constantly monitors the batteries and provides only what they need. 

The best practice is to leave the car plugged in until it needs to be used and then plug it back in at the end of the day, allowing it to completely charge.

The process of charging creates hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive.  Charging should always be done in a well-ventilated area away from flames or anything that can create a spark.

Charging procedure for “Powerwise” EZGO brand chargers:
  • Verify charger condition by plugging into the wall receptacle and by inserting the charger handle into the car. LED lights will flash red or green (Powerwise QE) or the ammeter will indicate 21 amps (Powerwise 1&2) based on depth of discharge.
  • Allow the charger to complete the charge process by turning off on it’s own.
  • Short charging will promote unbalanced batteries and needless battery replacement.
  • Equalization charges are recommended monthly with daily use, bi-annually with periodic use.  Equalization is an overcharge performed on flooded lead-acid batteries after they have been fully charged. It helps eliminate stratification and sulfation, two conditions that can reduce the overall performance of a battery.
     Visual LED Display Information, LED Operation Codes:
     SHORT LED flash green = less than 80% charged
     LONG LED flash green = more than 80% charged
     SOLID LED green = 100% charged
     RED LED flash = fault code

Equalization Charging
An equalization charge is a controlled over-charge of the battery set to allow the electrolyte to mix properly and to promote equal cell voltages and specific gravity readings.

Perform all periodic maintenance checks (fluid level, clean batteries, good terminal connections, and verify proper charging).  Make sure that the car was charged the night before and that the charger has cycled off.

  • Unplug the charger from the car.
  • Inspect the DC plug of the charger and the receptacle of the car for any damage.
  • Plug the charger back in to the car to restart the charger.
  • Allow the charger to run until it cycles off.
  • Unplug the charger and re-plug immediately after the previous charger cycle.
  • Repeat for three consecutive charge cycles.
  • Allow batteries to cool.
  • Inspect and / or correct the electrolyte level in all battery cells.
  • Return the car to service.

Maintenance

BATTERIES CAN KILL.  Golf car batteries have enough voltage and current to stop the heart.  It is important when working around batteries that nothing conductive (like metal or body parts) can cross the terminals.  Also, wearing rubber gloves and safety goggles are absolutely necessary.

Regular maintenance involves inspection and water management.  The batteries are filled with a solution of acid and water (electrolyte).  The charging and operation process evaporates the water so it is necessary to maintain water at the proper level.

Once a month, remove the battery caps and inspect the water level.  It should be just covering the top of the lead plates.  Fill ONLY using distilled water.  Be sure it says “distilled” as most bottled waters have a high level of minerals which are bad for the plates.  Distilled water can be found in any grocery store and is usually in the “laundry or cleaning solution” area.  Do NOT fill to the top of the case as the electrolyte needs room for expansion and over filling will result in this corrosive fluid being pushed out of the battery and into the surrounding area.  The plates need to be covered so they will not oxidize and become less effective.

While adding water, inspect the batteries for any signs of bulging, cracks or other problems.  Inspect the connections for unusual corrosion or loose connections.  Contact a trained technician if there is anything that looks out of the ordinary.  Automatic watering systems are available.  Ask an All Cal representative about this if you are interested.

Every 12 months the connections should be removed, terminals and connection cables cleaned with a battery brush and retightened.  This requires working with conductive tools so it is necessary the technician is trained and capable of these requirements.  If not, please call All Cal and one of our technicians can come out to service the vehicle batteries, check brakes and perform other routine maintenance items.

If you have any questions about your golf car battery use or maintenance, please don’t hesitate to contact All Cal.

Thursday, June 19, 2014

A Primer on Neighborhood Electric Vehicles vs Golf Cars

In June 1978, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), Department of Transportation (DOT) made a final rule for the definition and use of Low Speed Vehicles.  As such, a new Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 500 (49 CFR 571.500) was established by this final rule.  From this, California applied the DOT requirements and adopted statutes in its own Vehicle Code.

The California Vehicle Code defines “neighborhood electric vehicles” NEVs and “low speed vehicles” LSVs as follows (from www.dmv.ca.gov):

Design
NEVs/LSVs have very specific features and operating parameters to qualify for registration and use, including:
•   Four wheels.
•   Within one mile can reach a speed of more than 20 miles per hour (mph) but not more than 25 mph on a paved level surface.
•   Has a 17–digit conforming vehicle identification number (VIN)
•   Has a gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) of less than 3,000 pounds.
•   Must be certified to meet Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS) to be registered and operated on public streets, roads, or highways.
•   May look like a golf–cart to the casual observer, but is actually a motor vehicle requiring a valid California driver license, registration, and insurance.

Operation of NEVs/LSVs
Local authorities, by ordinance or resolution, may restrict or prohibit the use of NEVs/LSVs. An NEV/LSV may:
•   Not be operated on any roadway with a speed limit above 35 mph.
•   Cross state highways only at controlled intersections. Crossing at uncontrolled intersections is permitted with approval of the local authority governing that intersection.
•   Cross at intersections that have a speed limit above 35 mph, if the crossing begins and ends on a road of 35 mph or less.
•   Be operated as a golf cart within a distance of one mile or less from a golf course or on roads designated for such operation by ordinance or resolution by a local authority.

Modified/Altered NEVs/LSVs
NEVs/LSVs must be able to operate at a minimum of 20mph and no more than 25mph.  If you modify or alter your NEV/LSV to go faster than 25 miles per hour, the vehicle no longer qualifies for the relaxed FMVSS established for NEV/LSVs. Your vehicle will be required to meet the same FMVSS established for passenger vehicles… like air-bags. Failure to comply with all necessary regulations may result in a citation.

So what makes a NEV/LSV different than a Golf Cart?  Following is the Vehicle Code statues that define Golf Cart design and operation.

Golf Carts Design
•    Carry no more than two persons, including the driver.
•    Carry golf equipment.
•    Have no less than three wheels in contact with the ground.
•    Operate at a maximum speed of 15 mph.
•    Weigh no more than 1,300 pounds unladen (empty).
Registration is not required if you operate your golf cart on a highway designated for such use by ordinance or resolution within one mile of a golf course.  You may not operate on a road with a speed limit above 25 mph except by ordinance or resolution by a local authority.

Modified Golf Carts
A golf cart cannot be converted for registration purpose as an NEV/LSV. If you modify your golf cart to go faster than 15 mph or seat more than two persons, the vehicle is considered a regular motor vehicle and must comply with FMVSS for passenger vehicles.  FMVSS include additional vehicle equipment, appropriate FMVSS labels, applicable emission standards, and a 17–digit conforming VIN. Failure to comply with all necessary regulations may result in a citation.

Golf Cart Equipment Requirements
Golf carts must comply with certain equipment standards established by the California Highway Patrol (CHP) to be registered for on–road use. Equipment requirements are outlined in the Motorcycle, Motor Driven Cycle, and Motorized Bicycle Requirements (CHP 888) form available at www.chp.ca.gov.
If you drive your golf cart on the road it must be equipped with:
•    At least one headlamp, tail lamp, and stop lamp
•    A rear reflector
•    Front/rear turn signals
•    Front/side reflectors
•    A mirror (located in a position to allow the driver a rear view of at least 200 feet)
•    A horn
•    Fenders
•    A safety glazed windshield
•    Windshield wipers

Tuesday, June 17, 2014

NEV Summer Special!

2003 Club Car Pathway
  offered by: Jon Bloom, All Cal Golf & Industrial
  (925) 324-1087
  1820 Arnold Industrial Way, Unit B, Concord, CA 94520















17 digit VIN, so can be registered as street legal Neighborhood Electric Vehicle
Use on any road with posted speed limit of 35mph or less!

48 Volt Electric, IQ Drive System.
Brand new batteries
Fully serviced
Automatic charger.
Headlights, Taillights, Turn Signals, Brake Lights and Horn.
Sun Top, Windshield and Windshield Wiper.
4 Wheel brakes.
ROPS (Roll over protection systems)
Seat Belts.
Overall Body Size ( 93 Long X 49 Wide ) Inches.
Wheel Base ( 38 Long X 49 wide) Inches
Total Vehicle Weight 1000 lbs Less Passengers, Vehicle Capacity 400 lbs


LIMITED TIME SPECIAL by All Cal Jon 
call for pricing

https://www.facebook.com/AllCalJon

Wednesday, May 21, 2014

A Need for Speed

Speed.  Our quest seems insatiable.   Whether driven or propelled across land, sea or air, there has always been a desire to go faster, push the limits.  Acceleration and speed are always the performance bench marks that stand above others and are talked about by motor-heads.  Zero to sixty, 1/4 mile, and top speed are important numbers used for comparison of muscle cars, super cars and even daily drivers.  Since going fast on the highway risks a big fat ticket, another outlet for speed freaks is the performance boat.  Many waterways only have one speed limit... whatever is safe for the conditions present.

Going fast on the water is thrilling.  The sense of speed is more acute as you are typically exposed and in the open; absent is the cocoon of metal and glass.  Many travel at 80mph on the interstate, thinking nothing of it.  I would venture to say few have really ever gone 80 on a boat and would find it either exhilarating or distressing.  In my book, 80 is the benchmark that separates performance boats from all other boats.

Overcoming the air and water resistance above 80 takes a lot of horsepower for any given weight.  The bigger the boat, the more ponies needed.  For a production boat, hitting the 100 mark, even fewer boats.  Above 120, that's just flat cookin' and the group smaller still.

My ride is very modest where performance boats are concerned.  It's a light twenty foot hull with big outboard so good power to weight ratio. The hull design is what's known as a "tunnel hull" (technically a mod-vp).  The void spaces under the boat (tunnels) pack air and create lift, thus less water drag and more speed.  It also corners like a go-kart.  Bottom line, fun and exhilarating!


Stoker SST 204 with Merc 300xs

Performance cars, performance boats; what about performance golf carts?  Is there such a thing?  Yup.  Hard to define, but similar to it's car and boat cousins... speed and acceleration!  Some people just want to go faster than 13.  Then once it does 20, what about 25?  Why stop there, what about 35 or 55 for that matter?  Crazy?  Check this out...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vq165SCbsSw

I'd love to hear from you.  Click on the comment link below and weigh in.  Let's here what you think.

     1) How fast have you been on the water and in what kind of boat?
     2) How fast is your golf cart and what is fast enough?

In a future post we'll look at how to meet your need for speed from that golf car.  Looking to just make it up the big hills without slowing or need to do a burn out?  We'll look at how to reach your target speed.

Sunday, May 18, 2014

Golf Carts and Go-fast Boats

What makes a blog "good"?  Honestly, I have no idea.  I'm not a "blogger."  My impression is that blogs with a following offer value, humor,  controversy or a combination thereof.   I think ultimately blogs are either an expression of vanity... "look ma I'm on the Internet" or a social media tool for staying in touch with your customers.  Since I can write, have knowledge, opinions, experience, wit... what the heck?!  So here starts the All Cal Jon blog.

All Cal (www.allcalgolf.com) is a purveyor of kick-ass "golf" carts, though many are not used for golf.  Technically they are really nifty electric vehicles used for golf, maintenance, shuttle, security, neighborhood errands, and even drag racing.  I'm big fan of the AC-drive electric variety.  They are quiet and efficient, cost pennies to operate and require little maintenance.

My name is Jon (no "h") and I want to be your golf cart, go-to guy.  In this blog I hope to offer salient, valuable electric cart and neighborhood, low-speed vehicle information.  That in and of itself would be boring, so I'll add in a pinch my downtime passion, performance boating.  It's often associated with the Miami Vice, offshore, big, loud go-fast style boats.... which mine is not.  However, it also includes a myriad of other boat styles that typically have one thing in common, speed.

In the next post, we'll look at the "speed" question as it relates to cars, boats and golf carts.  Please follow me on Facebook and Twitter, spread the word... that's how this is supposed to work.  Even though I'm based in NorCal, I'd love to have golf cart enthusiasts and performance boaters anywhere check in, contribute and have some fun.  Thanks for stopping by.

https://www.facebook.com/AllCalJon

https://twitter.com/AllCalJon